Standard Test Method for Measuring Break Pattern of Leather (Break Scale)

SCOPE
1.1 This test method covers the measurement of the break pattern of shoe upper leather using an arbitrary break scale. This test method does not apply to wet blue.
1.2 This standard does not purport to address all of the safety problems, if any, associated with its use. It is the responsibility of the user of this standard to establish appropriate safety and health practices and determine the applicability of regulatory limitations prior to use.

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Publication Date
09-Sep-2000
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Drafting Committee
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ASTM D2941-00 - Standard Test Method for Measuring Break Pattern of Leather (Break Scale)
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NOTICE: This standard has either been superseded and replaced by a new version or withdrawn.
Contact ASTM International (www.astm.org) for the latest information
Designation: D 2941 – 00
Standard Test Method for
Measuring Break Pattern of Leather (Break Scale)
This standard is issued under the fixed designation D 2941; the number immediately following the designation indicates the year of
original adoption or, in the case of revision, the year of last revision. A number in parentheses indicates the year of last reapproval. A
superscript epsilon (e) indicates an editorial change since the last revision or reapproval.
This standard has been approved for use by agencies of the Department of Defense.
1. Scope formed on bending the grain to form a concave surface may
indicate that the grain layer is separating from the corium or
1.1 This test method covers the measurement of the break
main stratum as in pipey leather. Shoes made from fine-break
pattern of shoe upper leather using an arbitrary break scale.
leather are more attractive and tend to wear longer than shoes
This test method does not apply to wet blue.
made from coarse-break leather. (See MIL-STD 663 and the
1.2 This standard does not purport to address all of the
ALCA Journal).
safety concerns, if any, associated with its use. It is the
responsibility of the user of this standard to establish appro-
5,6
5. Apparatus
priate safety and health practices and determine the applica-
5.1 Satra Mandrel, consisting of two windows or hollows.
bility of regulatory limitations prior to use.
5.2 Satra Visual Break Scale, consisting of eight levels of
2. Referenced Documents break ranging from 1, fine, to 8, coarse.
2.1 ASTM Standards:
6. Test Specimen
D 1517 Terminology Relating to Leather
6.1 The sample for the test should be taken from an agreed
2.2 MIL Standard:
area of the hide, and shall be a piece of leather 2 by 4 in. (51
MIL-STD 663 Visual Inspection Guide for Footwear Upper
3 by 102 mm) with the long dimension perpendicular to the
Leather
backbone; or a cut shoe part.
3. Terminology 6.2 Unless otherwise specified, one specimen shall be tested
from each sample.
3.1 Definitions:
3.1.1 break (of leather)—the pattern of wrinkles formed on
7. Procedure
the grain surface of upper leather when it is bent grain in to
7.1 With long dimension of the specimen parallel to the
form a concave surface. This characteristic is observed in the
length of the mandrel, bend it with thumb and fingers to bring
vamp of the shoe in walking. For this reason this test method
it into contact with the outside of the mandrel, and observe the
is primarily intended for evaluation of cut parts.
wrinkles through the windows.
3.2 For definitions of other terms used in this test method,
7.2 Compare the wrinkle pattern of the specimen with those
refer to Terminology D 1517.
of the Satra break scale.
4. Significance and Use 7.3 The specimen should be rated to the nearest ⁄2-grade,
that is, if it appears that the break is better than 4 but not as
4.1 Break depends on the fiber structure and on the relation
good as 3, the break of the leather should be graded as 3 ⁄2 .
between the grain and other strata of the leather. A fine break,
Thus, the 8-point scale gives a 15 reading range from 1 to 8 in
or a grain pattern which shows many fine wrinkles when it is
steps of ⁄2 scale unit.
bent to form a concave surface, as it is in the vamp of a shoe,
reflects favorably upon appearance and serviceability. A coarse
8. Report
break, on the other hand, where a few coarse wrinkles are
8.1 The report shall include
...

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