ASTM D4235-95

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Designation: D 4235 – 95
Standard Performance Specification for
Women’s and Girls’ Knitted Blouse and Dress Fabrics
This standard is issued under the fixed designation D 4235; the number immediately following the designation indicates the year of
original adoption or, in the case of revision, the year of last revision. A number in parentheses indicates the year of last reapproval. A
superscript epsilon (e) indicates an editorial change since the last revision or reapproval.
1. Scope 116 Colorfastness to Crocking: Rotary Vertical Crockmeter
Method
1.1 This performance specification covers knitted fabrics
124 Appearance of Durable Press Fabrics after Repeated
comprised of any textile fiber or mixture of fibers, used in
Home Launderings
women’s and girls’ blouses and dresses women’s and girls’
132 Colorfastness to Drycleaning
knitted blouse and dress fabrics composed of any fiber or
135 Dimensional Changes in Automatic Home Laundering
mixture of textile fibers.
of Durable Press Woven or Knit Fabrics
1.2 These requirements apply to the length and width
Evaluation Procedure 1 Gray Scale for Color Change
directions for those properties where each fabric direction is
Evaluation Procedure 2 Gray Scale for Staining
pertinent.
Evaluation Procedure 3 AATCC Chromatic Transference
1.3 This standard does not purport to address all of the
Scale
safety concerns, if any, associated with its use. It is the
2.3 Federal Standard:
responsibility of the user of this standard to establish appro-
16 CFR, Chapter II-Consumer Product Safety Commission
priate safety and health practices and determine the applica-
Subchapter D-Flammable Fabrics Act Regulations.
bility of regulatory limitations prior to use.
2.4 Military Standard:
2. Referenced Documents MIL-STD-105D Sampling Procedures and Tables for In-
spection by Attributes
2.1 ASTM Standards:
D 123 Terminology Relating to Textiles
NOTE 1—Reference to test methods in this standard give only the
D 2594 Test Methods for Stretch Properties of Knitted
permanent part of the designation of ASTM, AATCC, or other test
methods. The current editions of each test method cited shall prevail.
Fabrics Having Low Power
D 2724 Test Methods for Bonded, Fused, and Laminated
3. Terminology
Apparel Fabrics
3.1 Definition:
D 2905 Practice for Statements on Number of Specimens
3.1.1 sheer, n—a fabric that is transparently thin or diapha-
for Textiles
nous.
D 3786 Test Method for Hydraulic Bursting Strength of
3.1.1.1 Discussion—There is no clear distinction between
Knitted Goods and Nonwoven Fabrics—Diaphragm
sheer fabrics and nonsheer fabrics. The purchaser and the seller
Bursting Strength Tester Method
should agree in advance into which category a fabric should be
D 3787 Test Method for Bursting Strength of Knitted
classified.
Goods—Constant-Rate-of-Traverse (CRT) Ball Burst
3.2 For definitions of other textile terms used in this
Test
specification, refer to the individual ASTM and AATCC test
2.2 AATCC Methods:
methods and to Terminology D 123.
8 Colorfastness to Crocking: AATCC Crockmeter Method
15 Colorfastness to Perspiration
4. Specification Requirements
16 Colorfastness to Light
4.1 The properties of knitted fabrics for women’s and girls’
23 Colorfastness to Burnt Gas Fumes
blouses and dresses shall conform to the specification require-
61 Colorfastness to Washing, Domestic, and Laundering,
ments in Table 1.
Commercial: Accelerated
5. Significance and Use
This performance specification is under the jurisdiction of ASTM Committee
5.1 Upon mutual agreement between the purchaser and the
D-13 on Textiles and is the direct responsibility of Subcommittee D13.56 on
seller, fabrics intended for this end use should meet all of the
Performance Standards for Textile Fabrics.
Current edition approved May 15, 1995. Published July 1995. Originally
published as D 4235 – 83. Last previous edition D 4253 – 92.
2 5
Annual Book of ASTM Standards, Vol 07.01. Available from Superintendent of Documents, Government Printing Office,
Annual Book of ASTM Standards, Vol 07.02. Washington, DC 20402.
4 6
Available from The American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists, Available from Standardization Documents Order Desk, Bldg. 4 Section D, 700
P.O. Box 12215, Research Triangle Park, N.C. 27709. Robbins Ave., Philadelphia, PA 19111-5094, Attn: NPODS.
Copyright © ASTM, 100 Barr Harbor Drive, West Conshohocken, PA 19428-2959, United States.
D 4235
A
TABLE 1 Specification Requirement
Requirements
Characteristic Section
Sheer Fabrics NonSheer Fabrics
B
Bursting Strength (ball burst) 20 lbf (89 N), min 30 lbf (133 N), min 7.1
Dimensional Change:
Laundering (see 7.2.1.2) 3 % max 3 % max 7.2.1
Drycleaning 3 % max 3 % max 7.2.2
Colorfastness:
Burnt gas fumes, 2 cycles 7.3.1
C C
Shade Change, original Class 4 , min Class 4 , min
C C
Shade change, after one laundering Class 4 , min Class 4 , min
or
one drycleaning
Laundering: 7.3.2
C C
Shade Change Class 4 , min Class 4 , min
D D
Staining Class 3 , min Class 3 , min
Drycleaning: 7.3.3
C C
Shade Change Class 4 , min Class 4 , min
Crocking: 7.3.4
E E
Dry Class 4 , min Class 4 , min
E E
Wet Class 3 , min Class 3 , min
Perspiration: 7.3.5
C C
Shade Change Class 4 , min Class 4 , min
D D
Staining Class 3 , min Class 3 , min
C C
Light (20 AATCC FU) (xenon-arc) Step 4 , min Step 4 , min 7.3.6
Fabric Appearance (see 7.4.1.1) DP 3.5, min DP 3.5, min 7.4
Flammability pass pass 7.5
A
Class in colorfastness is based on a numerical scale of 5 for negligible color change or color transfer to 1 for very severe color change or color transfer.
B
There is more than one standard method that can be used to measure bursting strength and lightfastness. These methods cannot be used interchangeably since there
may be no overall correlation between them (see 3.1.1 and Note 2, Note 3, Note 4, and Note 5).
C
AATCC Gray Scale for Color Change.
D
AATCC Gray Scale for Staining.
E
AATCC Chromatic Transference Scale.
requirements listed in Table 1 of this specification. agreed between the purchaser and the seller.
5.2 It is recognized that for purposes of fashion or aesthet-
NOTE 2—Care should be taken to subtract the tare diaphragm pressure
ics, the ultimate consumer of articles made from these fabrics
from the gross pressure to obtain actual bursting strength of fabric when
may find acceptable fabrics that do not conform to all of the
using the diaphragm bursting tester. Calibrate the equipment according to
requirements in Table 1. Therefore, one or more of the
manufacturer’s instruction before use. Since there is no overall correlation
requirements listed in Table 1 may be modified by mutual between the results obtained with the CRT machine equippe
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